Crazy times...this was my last weekend in Paris proper. Next weekend I'll be in London visiting my cousin Molly, and the weekend after that, a school friend in Madrid. The last weekend I'll be visiting my uncle's family near Alsace, in the east of France. I didn't think I would want to leave France once I was hear, but the opportunities arose to make a few special trips to nearby countries, and I couldn't resist, knowing it will be my only chance in a long while.
So, I did my best to be very Parisien this weekend. Friday evening, Rachel invited me over for dinner since her host family was out of town for the weekend. They had prepared food for her though, so we got to have quite the dinner. We started with spiced pumpkin soup and salad, then had roasted veal and rice with a lemon sauce. After that, a bit of flan nature was enough to finish us off and we just sat around and listened to a Jacques Brel album we found in the stereo.
After dinner, we went to le Caveau de la Huchette, a famous Jazz bar that had a big cave downstairs with a dance floor lined with benches and a few smaller sitting rooms. A quartet of soprano sax, drums, bass, piano was playing some lively tunes, and Rachel dragged me onto the floor to step on her toes as I tried to not embarrass myself next to a trained swing dancer. Andrea and Kallie showed up, and we watched with amusement as Rachel danced with various other fellows, including a 70-something year old who knew some good moves. We finally left and caught the very last metros home.
Saturday I went to the Salon International de l'Agriculture at the Porte de Versailles convention center. This was an 8 day, 8 exposition hall epic display and taste of everything you could and couldn't imagine about food, drink, animals, and farms from all around France, and all over the world. Rachel, Andrea and I spent five and a half hours roaming several halls and sampling assorted cheeses, meats, wines, aperatifs, fresh fruit, strange dried fruits, chocolate, yogurt, and more. They had a milk bar where they served up fresh milk flavored by different syrups like mint, cafe moka, or strawberry. This big display also featured a guy juggling milk bottles in front of a DJ mixing up some sick Moo-beats.
There were easily a hundred live cows and bulls on display, some for milking, some I'm sure will end up producing some amazingly juicy steaks. The shear size of these animals was mind blowing, and it brought to mind some of the things we are learning in our biology class about selective breeding. There were also a bunch of big soft looking sheep, goats and pigs. Another hall had arenas for horse shows, dog shows, and vendors showing off the newest in all the related gear and food.
The food hall had two levels, and both were jam packed with people showing off the best of the best from all around the world. I had a cured duck meat sandwich from Hungary, with sliced cucumber and tomato. I got a handful of wasabi covered peanuts, and nearly died from one overly saturated one that just about exploded my sinuses. I was able to convince Rachel to try one, and the look on her face was priceless. We sampled a watered down fruit beer (no wonder it was only 3.50 for a big bottle), some spicy yet silky red wine, and a wine based aperitif called Diablito. Everyone was so eager to share their treasures, and so proud of what they had. I surprised the girls with a kilo of some crisp delicious apples, because I couldn't live with only a small slice to sample.
After we were thoroughly satiated and exhausted, we returned home to digest what we just experienced. I found a cd of Bach's violin Partitas and Sonatas and we listened to some of my favorite pieces. For dinner, Rachel took me to an awesome organic food store where we picked up ingredients for a hearty beet, avocado, small leaf lettuce and goat cheese salad. I fried up a couple eggs and put them on top of slices of a good dark baguette with thin layers of comte cheese in between and a few slices of salami and cured ham on top. Shredded carrots accompanied, and a small bottle of red helped wash it all down.
After dinner, I went to a small concert at Church of Saint Severin just below the little island that Notre Dame is on. A violin soloist was playing Vivaldi's Four Seasons, accompanied by a string quartet and harpsichordist. I didn't realize how many movements each season was, and it was a struggle to keep from dozing off. I did really enjoy the music, especially the way it resonated in the tall ceilinged church. However, I decided to forgo the last two pieces and return home after Vivaldi to get some sleep. I did, however, have to stop and get a banana and nutella crepe on the way to my metro. So good.
Sunday, Rachel and I met up at a small bike shop that rents bikes and we soon found ourselves riding along the Seine river under a semi sunny, mid 50s day. It was absolutely fantastic to finally be back on a bike after 2 and a half months off. We found some really bumpy pave to ride on, and made it across Paris in about 30 minutes. After an apple stop, we continued on to the Bois de Boulogne, a big forest area just outside of Paris on the lower west side. We rode around the lakes and through the trees for a while until we made our way back along the Champs Elysees. Granted, riding with Sunday car traffic was not the same as a pelaton in the Tour de France, but riding around the Arc de Triomphe and then down to the Concorde was really special. After a bit of an urban riding detour, we finally made it back to the bike shop. Famished from our two wheeled excursion, we stopped at a bakery to grab some pastries. At the house, I ate my first ever croissant au chocolat et amandes...i had to close my eyes while I ate it so more of my energy could go towards enjoying how freakin delicious and gooey it was. I guess not eating lunch may have also affected my opinion of this pastry. I washed it down with another pastry, a Pain au chocolat, and a glass of milk, then waited for the food coma. After an hour of slothing on the couch, I went back home and had dinner with my host family. Salad, breaded chicken, noodles, baked tomatoes, and a tangerine finished my weekend of food indulgence. We watched the new minister of foreign affairs give a speech on TV, and then I retired to bell tower for the night.
A demain!
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Hang dry
This is how the laundry is dried in our house. It is rather ecological and energy-conservative
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Autoportraits
At the Cantillon Brewery in Brussels, where they brew Lambic, a spontaneously fermented beer of barley malt and wheat that is aged for up to three years in wood barrels, then used as the base for Gueuze and fruit beers like Kriek (cherry), Framboise (Raspberry), and Faro. The wild bacteria and yeasts are native to the Senne valley that Brussels lies in. Lambic is only brewed in the Pajottenland region of Belgium (southwest of Brussels), and at the Cantillon Brewery. They have been using the same processes since they opened in 1900. This unusual process gives the beer a distinctive flavor: dry, vinous, and cidery, with a slightly sour aftertaste. Lambic beer originates with the working classes of the region some 500 years ago who appreciated a weak, quenching drink that could be produced cheaply and easily on the farm. The lambic is a flat beer, since all the carbon dioxide escapes from the barrels. It is later combined with younger lambics and bottled to undergo further fermentation to produce the carbonated Gueuze. Fruit is added and aged for 2 months to make fruit beers.
This is at the cemetary Pere Lachaise, where now over 300,000 people are buried or cremated. I went there to look at the memorials of those who were deported to Nazi concentration camps or died fighting for France. The cemetary is named after a Jesuit priest who lived on the land that the cemetary now occupies. It became a cemetary during Napoleon's rule, and slowly grew in size and popularity as many celebrities were buried there.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Wednesday
We played Jeopardy in our class on evolution and natural history, and it was kind of a joke. Some of the questions were pertinent, but there was a whole category where the answer was the name of our professor's dog, Kiwi. My team came in last both rounds, but we probably had the most fun. I spent the rest of the afternoon writing a report on the Pantheon that I visited Monday, and studying for my French midterm.
The highlight was going to the Grand Epicerie, which is basically a Whole Foods on crack. They have big sections for every category of food: fantastic looking meats, seafoods, cheese, bread, eggs, coffee beans - with their own roaster, tea, a whole wall just for yogurt, chocolate cream desserts, wine, crazy beers, "American" food, and many more incredibly well presented items.
After eating a couple "petit pot de creme chocolat" at home, I had to try out some more chocolate desserts that come in small glass cups/jars. These are some of the most amazing and clever desserts I have had. It is delicious chocolate mousse/pudding in a small glass that can be washed and used as a small wine glass later. I now have 5 assorted jars in my room. I have decided to become an expert in small chocolate pudding desserts, and will now attempt to try and judge a new type every day, since the grand epicerie is just a couple blocks from school.
The organic produce was, in my opinion, overpackaged
They had a container of ready to eat Escargots in a fridge section!!
Cool bike we found on our way to the epicerie
The highlight was going to the Grand Epicerie, which is basically a Whole Foods on crack. They have big sections for every category of food: fantastic looking meats, seafoods, cheese, bread, eggs, coffee beans - with their own roaster, tea, a whole wall just for yogurt, chocolate cream desserts, wine, crazy beers, "American" food, and many more incredibly well presented items.
After eating a couple "petit pot de creme chocolat" at home, I had to try out some more chocolate desserts that come in small glass cups/jars. These are some of the most amazing and clever desserts I have had. It is delicious chocolate mousse/pudding in a small glass that can be washed and used as a small wine glass later. I now have 5 assorted jars in my room. I have decided to become an expert in small chocolate pudding desserts, and will now attempt to try and judge a new type every day, since the grand epicerie is just a couple blocks from school.
Au Fond de la Seine...
Last Friday in our photography workshop, I was given the poem "Complainte de la Seine" by Maurice Magre, for me to illustrate with a single photo I take. The poem is a bit morbid, but intriguing nonetheless. Here is the English translation:
Lament of the Seine
At the bottom of the Seine there is gold,
rusting boats, jewels, weapons.
At the bottom of the Seine there are dead bodies.
At the bottom of the Seine there are tears.
At the bottom of the Seine there are flowers,
in their vase of mud, they are nourished by silt.
At the bottom of the Seine there are the hearts
that suffered greatly from having lived life.
And then the rocks and the grey beasts
The pipes of the sewers blowing out poisons,
The rings cast off by unappreciative lovers,
The feet cut off by a propeller From their trunk.
And the cursed fruits of sterile wombs,
The innocent abortions that no one loved,
The vomit of the grand city...
On the bottom of the Seine they are there.
Oh, lenient Seine where the cadavers go,
Oh, the bed with sheets made of silt,
River of losses with neither beacon nor haven,
Singing a lullaby to the morgue and the bridges.
Welcoming the poor one, welcoming the woman,
welcoming the drunkard, welcoming the insane one,
Mixing their sobs to the sound of your tears,
And carrying their heart among the rocks.
At the bottom of the Seine there is gold,
the rusted boats, the jewels, the weapons.
At the bottom of the Seine there are the dead.
At the bottom of the Seine there are tears.
(in French)
Au fond de la Seine il y a de l'or,
Des bateaux rouillés, des bijoux, des armes.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des larmes.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des fleurs,
De vase et de boue elles sont nourries.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des coeurs
Qui souffrient trop pour vivre la vie.
Et puis des cailloux et des bêtes grises,
L'âme des égouts soufflant des poisons,
Les anneaux jetés par des incomprises,
Des pieds qu'une hélice a coupés du trone.
Et les fruits maudits des ventres stériles,
Laits blancs avortés que nul n'aima,
Les vomissements de la grand' ville,
Au fond de la Seine il y a cela.
O Seine clémente ou vont des cadavres,
Au lit dont les draps sont faits de limon.
Fleuve des déchets sans fanal ni havre,
Chanteuse berçant la morgue, ils le font.
Accueille le pauvre, accueille la femme
Accueille l'ivrogne, accueille le fou,
Mêle leurs sanglots au bruit de tes larmes
Et porte leur coeur parmi les cailloux.
Au fond de la Seine il a de l'or,
Des bateaux rouillés, des bijoux, des armes.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des morts
Au fond de la Seine il a des larmes.
It paints a rather dark picture of the Seine river, which flows through such a lively city. However, this day was cloudy with hint of rain, I was in a bit of a morose mood, so I was very inspired to walk along the river for a couple hours in the afternoon looking for an scene to photograph. I took the metro to Passy station, which is just across the river from the Eiffel Tour, and then walked southwest along the edge of the river, away from the center of the city. Anyways, here are a couple photos I took that I thought captured aspects of the poem.
Later in the afternoon I went for a run along Rue de Rome and found the block with at least a dozen music instrument shops. Violins, bases, guitars, horns, you name it. At one of the many violin shops, I could see the craftsmen working on various parts of violins in the workshop. It was really cool, I have to return again when I'm not in running clothes.
After dinner, I met up with Rachel at a really cool cafe called La Cantoche Paname to study a little for our game of jeopardy in our biology/evolution class. We got distracted by a nutella tiramisu and peach kir, and by the nostalgiac childhood theme of the place. They had various toys all over the walls and the menus were written in school notebooks. They had signs for "Soldes," or sales on food items on the walls. I'll definitely go back for a full meal, it was a really fun place to find.
Lament of the Seine
At the bottom of the Seine there is gold,
rusting boats, jewels, weapons.
At the bottom of the Seine there are dead bodies.
At the bottom of the Seine there are tears.
At the bottom of the Seine there are flowers,
in their vase of mud, they are nourished by silt.
At the bottom of the Seine there are the hearts
that suffered greatly from having lived life.
And then the rocks and the grey beasts
The pipes of the sewers blowing out poisons,
The rings cast off by unappreciative lovers,
The feet cut off by a propeller From their trunk.
And the cursed fruits of sterile wombs,
The innocent abortions that no one loved,
The vomit of the grand city...
On the bottom of the Seine they are there.
Oh, lenient Seine where the cadavers go,
Oh, the bed with sheets made of silt,
River of losses with neither beacon nor haven,
Singing a lullaby to the morgue and the bridges.
Welcoming the poor one, welcoming the woman,
welcoming the drunkard, welcoming the insane one,
Mixing their sobs to the sound of your tears,
And carrying their heart among the rocks.
At the bottom of the Seine there is gold,
the rusted boats, the jewels, the weapons.
At the bottom of the Seine there are the dead.
At the bottom of the Seine there are tears.
(in French)
Au fond de la Seine il y a de l'or,
Des bateaux rouillés, des bijoux, des armes.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des larmes.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des fleurs,
De vase et de boue elles sont nourries.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des coeurs
Qui souffrient trop pour vivre la vie.
Et puis des cailloux et des bêtes grises,
L'âme des égouts soufflant des poisons,
Les anneaux jetés par des incomprises,
Des pieds qu'une hélice a coupés du trone.
Et les fruits maudits des ventres stériles,
Laits blancs avortés que nul n'aima,
Les vomissements de la grand' ville,
Au fond de la Seine il y a cela.
O Seine clémente ou vont des cadavres,
Au lit dont les draps sont faits de limon.
Fleuve des déchets sans fanal ni havre,
Chanteuse berçant la morgue, ils le font.
Accueille le pauvre, accueille la femme
Accueille l'ivrogne, accueille le fou,
Mêle leurs sanglots au bruit de tes larmes
Et porte leur coeur parmi les cailloux.
Au fond de la Seine il a de l'or,
Des bateaux rouillés, des bijoux, des armes.
Au fond de la Seine il y a des morts
Au fond de la Seine il a des larmes.
It paints a rather dark picture of the Seine river, which flows through such a lively city. However, this day was cloudy with hint of rain, I was in a bit of a morose mood, so I was very inspired to walk along the river for a couple hours in the afternoon looking for an scene to photograph. I took the metro to Passy station, which is just across the river from the Eiffel Tour, and then walked southwest along the edge of the river, away from the center of the city. Anyways, here are a couple photos I took that I thought captured aspects of the poem.
Later in the afternoon I went for a run along Rue de Rome and found the block with at least a dozen music instrument shops. Violins, bases, guitars, horns, you name it. At one of the many violin shops, I could see the craftsmen working on various parts of violins in the workshop. It was really cool, I have to return again when I'm not in running clothes.
After dinner, I met up with Rachel at a really cool cafe called La Cantoche Paname to study a little for our game of jeopardy in our biology/evolution class. We got distracted by a nutella tiramisu and peach kir, and by the nostalgiac childhood theme of the place. They had various toys all over the walls and the menus were written in school notebooks. They had signs for "Soldes," or sales on food items on the walls. I'll definitely go back for a full meal, it was a really fun place to find.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
French Sunday and Opera Monday
Sunday was very relaxed, which is fitting since almost all of Paris shuts down on Sundays. I woke up at noon and found a "gateau yaourt etoile de pomme" at a bakery down the street. This star shaped, moist apple cake, along with a cup of coffee made a fantastic breakfast. I spent most of the rest of the day doing some studying and creating a little presentation I had to give in French class on Monday.
Monday, after my two classes of Evolution and French, I went home and took a nap and then went for a run around Park Monceau near my house. I got back in time to shower and grab a couple rolls of bread, then I was off to the Palais Garnier for Georges Handel's opera Giulio Cesare. This was four hours of absolutely magnificent orchestra, singers, and actors telling the story of Cesar, Ptolemy, Cleopatra, Cornelius, and others. The stage was a clever mix of modern and ancient time zones, set in the basement of a museum, with many large statues, paintings, and rugs. It was my first opera, and I have to say, I really really enjoyed it. The music was baroque, which is just so easy to listen to, and the singers blew me away with their ability. I spent some time trying to read the french supertitles projected above the stage, since the opera was sung in Italien, but I definitely had to close my eyes a few sections just to focus on the music.
Palais Garnier was home to Phantom of the Opera.
The cast was rather colorful. Especially Cleopatra
Professor Helms from Stanford and her husband on the Grand Staircase
Me as an opera singer
Andrea and I being "royal"
After the show, we explored the amazing Grand Foyer of Palais Garnier, which outdoes the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. The opera hall itself seats 2200 and has room onstage for 450 performers. The interior was possibly the most detailed, luxurious, extravagant theatre I have ever been in.
Andrea and Rachel in the Grand Foyer
Once we left the Opera house, Rachel and I still had a little energy, so we walked through the Louvre, mini arc de triomphe, and along to the Seine while we enjoyed a bottle of good red wine. I was looking for images of the Seine river to photograph to illustrate a poem I was given in my photography workshop, Complainte de la Seine by Magre. More on that later.
Walking by the mini Arc de Triomphe near the Louvre on the way home
Quite a fantastic way to spend the evening of Saint Valentine.
Monday, after my two classes of Evolution and French, I went home and took a nap and then went for a run around Park Monceau near my house. I got back in time to shower and grab a couple rolls of bread, then I was off to the Palais Garnier for Georges Handel's opera Giulio Cesare. This was four hours of absolutely magnificent orchestra, singers, and actors telling the story of Cesar, Ptolemy, Cleopatra, Cornelius, and others. The stage was a clever mix of modern and ancient time zones, set in the basement of a museum, with many large statues, paintings, and rugs. It was my first opera, and I have to say, I really really enjoyed it. The music was baroque, which is just so easy to listen to, and the singers blew me away with their ability. I spent some time trying to read the french supertitles projected above the stage, since the opera was sung in Italien, but I definitely had to close my eyes a few sections just to focus on the music.
After the show, we explored the amazing Grand Foyer of Palais Garnier, which outdoes the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. The opera hall itself seats 2200 and has room onstage for 450 performers. The interior was possibly the most detailed, luxurious, extravagant theatre I have ever been in.
Once we left the Opera house, Rachel and I still had a little energy, so we walked through the Louvre, mini arc de triomphe, and along to the Seine while we enjoyed a bottle of good red wine. I was looking for images of the Seine river to photograph to illustrate a poem I was given in my photography workshop, Complainte de la Seine by Magre. More on that later.
Quite a fantastic way to spend the evening of Saint Valentine.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)